Busan - Day 1

Early start to the day - alarm set - so that we could head off to Seoul Station to catch the KTX to Busan. The bullet train travels at up to 300km/h so our journey to Busan only took 2 hrs and 26 mins to cover just over 600 km.

We arrived in Busan, which is the second largest city in Korea and is on the South Eastern Coast, just before 12 and grabbed a taxi to our hotel. We are staying at The Commodore - which has been built to look like a Korean temple - and is a little spiffy for us! After we had checked in walked to the Busan tower so that we could get an idea of what Busan looks like. The short answer is huge! 

The park around the tower (Yongdusan Park) is very pretty - lots of stairs (again), large trees, gardens and statues. It was easy to take a gazillion pictures and the hard thing will be to edit it down later. 

After the park we grabbed a taxi to Taejongdae - which is a large park on the coast. There is a tram that takes you around the park and you can jump on and off at the stops that you want to. We stopped at a lookout overlooking the ragged cliffs to the sea, a small temple, the observatory and lighthouse and finally at the small Korean War memorial before walking our way back to the entrance. We probably spent about 2 hrs there before grabbing another taxi back to our hotel.

We have just had tea - here at the hotel. We were all too exhausted to head out to find somewhere to it, so a quick tea in the restaurant (western food to Han's horror and dismay). Now back in our rooms - and we will all be crashing early tonight.

Not quite sure what to think of Busan yet - but I know for a fact that the taxi drivers are maniacs!

The bullet train - KTX

Woo hoo - we blasted 300km/h

Our hotel for the next 2 nights

Yongdusan Park

Busan Tower

Taejongdae Park

Heading home.....

N Seoul tower, teddy bears and Nanta.

We had a slow start to the day which was really nice - not having to head out the door until about 11.00am. Ian has been working at night and most mornings so the slower start gave him 2-3 hrs of solid work (and the boys 2-3 hrs of ipad time!). We headed in to Myeongdong station where we headed to the bottom of Namsan mountain to reach the funicular which travels partly up the mountain and then we caught the cable car up to the top. The tower is a beautiful spot and today it was partly shrouded in misty cloud so we knew that our views would be partially obscured but at the same time the feeling was quiet surreal as the misty clouds floated past.

We headed to the top of the tower where we were able to pick out landmarks that we had visited - either on our last trip or on the this one (amongst the clouds remember!). After the tower we headed down for some lunch where we ended up going in different directions with Ian and Han picking Korean whilst Kim and I opted for a change with a hamburger. 

After lunch we went to the teddy bear museum - we had been last time but it is sooo cute you just had  to do it again. The museum uses teddy bears to depict moments in Korean history and of modern culture. In the historical section you have to find a naughty little bear who is slightly mischievous - great fun! At the shop I bought a teddy just like him and Kim bought another bear who looks very much like the bear he bought last time - so the teddy brothers were reunited today.

One of the things at the tower that is really moving is the thousands and thousands of padlocks chained to the fences which are a symbol of love. Couples can buy a padlock, write their message on it and add it to the fence. Today Ian bought a padlock and we added our message to the fence. When we come back again we will be able to look for our padlock and remember this trip.

After the museum and adding our padlock we headed down the mountain - this time we decided to walk down (last time we couldn't do it as we had the 4 grand parents with us). The walk is stunning - stairs, paths, mossy fortress wall and trees just starting to turn in colour. We took it slow but by the time we reached the bottom my knees were screaming - stupid arthritis! Hard to believe that thirteen years ago Ian and I walked up the mountain!! Couldn't do that now.

After a quick train trip we headed to Nanta - another non verbal musical performance. We had a chance to have a cool drink and a yummy donut before the show. We had seen Nanta last time (twice) but it was on the top of the list for both of the boys again this trip and I have to say Ian and I were also pretty keen. The show did not disappoint - lots of laughter, amazing drumming, magic, balancing and incredible knife work. There are some great clips on YouTube if you want to check it out.

Now back at the guest house - tea dealt with, showers done and we have packed for our three day jaunt to Busan. We will travel by KTX which is a bullet train that can reach speeds of 300km/h. I will try to post whilst we are in Busan but we are not 100% sure that our mobile internet (affectionately known as 'the egg') will work in Busan and if it doesn't that we will have wifi at our hotel. So - if I go off line - don't panic!! We will see you on the other side.

The cable car to the top of the mountain.

Misty clouds and a pagoda at the top.

N Seoul tower.

The naughty bear!

Just one of the scenes in the museum.

Our padlock.

Heading down. Paths, stairs and mossy fortress wall.

Nanta.

A walking tour, martial arts and a grand final

Today was a walking day - so I placed a gazillion band aids on my blisters before we headed out! We started at Seodaemun Independence Park which is home to Seodaemun Prison that was used to imprison the Korean independent fighters in 1919 by the Japanese who had invaded. The prison looks a lot like other prisons of that era - and reminded us of our visit last year to Alcatraz. The stories of torture were fairly horrific but we are glad that we visited to be reminded of the many battles that the Koreans have experienced in their history.

After the prison we wandered on to Dongnimmun Indendence Gate - and then on to Hong NanPa's house, past a small exercise park to a part of the fortress wall and then down to Gyeonggiojang House. After that we headed to Gyeonghuigung Palace. We had been to this palace last time to see the K-Tigers perform but had not actually gone in. The palace was small, but beautifully restored and we pretty much had it to ourselves. It was a very peaceful and serene place to spend some time.

Lunch was at the Seoul Museum of History before we wandered on to Gwanghwamum Square where we were fortunate enough to come upon a fusion martial arts performance. Our timing was incredible as we arrived with 10 minutes to spare and were able to watch them warm up. The performance had elements of Taekwondo, tricking, poomsae and even a bit of b-boying. Han loved it and was inspired to do some tricking of his own so we jumped on a train to Sinchon and found a soccer field at Sogang Univeristy where we spent about an hour with Han tricking and Ian and Kim listening to the grand final and watching the commentary on the AFL app.

A fantastic day out - we are back at the agency now resting before we head to Hongik for some tea.

Congratulations to Hawthorn!

Soedaemun Prison....

Dongnimmun Independence Gate

Just goofing around....

Fortress wall...

At the palace...

Whoa.....

Go Hawks....

Han being a goose....

Namsan Hanok Village, Dongdameun and Mrs Park

Today we went to Namsan Hanok Village - which has lots of traditional buildings and beautiful gardens with ponds, waterfalls and forested areas. It also has the time capsule that was buried in 1994 to commemorate the 600th birthday of Seoul (and is scheduled to be opened in 2394 on the 1000th birthday!

I had visited the village on our last trip with all the grandparents but it was the first time that Ian and the boys had seen it. I remembered it as a very tranquil place but this time it was filled with lots and lots of school groups - so it was less tranquil but much more colourful. The buildings are very beautiful - very ornate. Trying to take pictures without lots of little children in them was a little challenging.

After the village we headed to Dongdaemun market - where we got lost in the many floors and intricate mazes of stalls selling haberdashery, bedding and kitchen wares. Not a place that you would buy lots of things but amazing to see. We ate a scrummy lunch of street food before heading back to the agency.

Late this afternoon we had the pleasure of meeting Kim's foster mother, Mrs Park, again. We had seen her on our last visit and she was amazed at how much both of the boys had grown. She became very emotional as she talked to us, via our lovely post adoption social worker - Sun Hei. She kept telling Kim to be a good boy and to honor his parents, and that she thought we were a happy and loving family. Han gave her great joy by talking to her in Korean and by explaining to her that his Korean heritage was important and that he wanted to connect with his roots. There was lots of hugging and tears.

After the visit the boys got to see their files which in the end was not very stressful (I have been stressing about this for months). The files were thick and bulky but the majority of the paperwork was related to the adoption process from our end - papers we had filled in many many years ago, reports written by our social worker back in Australia and copies of their Australian citizenship (which means they will not be called up to serve in the Korean army when they turn 18!). We did find out that the boys seem to get their looks from their birth mothers - Han's long angular face and Kim's round face. I am glad we looked in the files and relieved that we have finally done it.

Another great day in beautiful Seoul.

Oh - and I have 2 new blisters!!

Namsan Hanok Village

Children, children....everywhere...

Elastic anyone??

What about some cotton reels?

Meeting Mrs Park.

One last hug....

South of the river

Today we spent the day on the south side of the river - around the Jamsil area. We headed off to Olympic Park - where most of the sports venues for the 1988 Olympics were. The park itself was beautiful, with lots of sports stadiums, statues, gardens and paths. We wandered around - climbing to the top of a large hill which gave us 360 degree views of the parks and grounds.

The massive World Peace gate built for the Olympics was amazing - so huge and impressive. The Olympic flame is still burning at its base. We managed to find the Australian flag amongst the sea of flag poles.

We then headed in to Jamsil - so that Kim could buy a cap he had seen earlier in the week before jumping on another train to the Olympic stadium, where we grabbed a bit of lunch in a small cafe. When Ian and I visited the stadium in 1998 you could buy an entry ticket to go inside - this time the security guard just opened one of the gates and let us in. We sat and watched some soccer training on the ground.

One of the places I had wanted to visit on our last trip was the Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs but we hadn't been able to get there. Today was the day that we managed it. The grounds are amazing - entry price for the 4 of us was 3000 won which is $3 - ridiculous. The tombs are high on hills with raised mounds and statues surrounding the buried king or queen. A beautiful place to visit.

We ended our day with a return visit to see Jump - another non verbal Korean performance filled with tumbling, tricking and a lot of slap stick humour before tea at Hongik. Our day involved 11 different subway rides, a mad rushed taxi ride to get to Jump and some absolutely scrumptious Pork Tonkatsu and Beef curry. We were out and about from 9.00 till 7.00 and we are all exhausted!

One of the views from the top of the Olympic Park....

The duck pond in the Olympic Park...

The World Peace Gate...

Just part of our lunch...

The royal tombs...

The DMZ - the demilitarized zone

An awesome day today as we travelled to the demilitarized zone which is known as the DMZ - something that Ian has been wanting to do on every visit we have made to Korea over the last 15 years.  Essentially it is an area that is between North and South Korea that is uninhabited and deserted and controlled by soldiers from the various armies - North, South and the US.

We travelled to the DMZ in a bus with other adoptive families and a few other tourists and had to go through military checkpoints where the soldiers checked our passports. We visited Imjingak Park - where visitors and families have tied ribbons to the fence with messages of love; crossed the Unification Bridge and then moved on to the Third Tunnel, the Dora observatory and the Dorasan railway station. 

The third tunnel was one of the tunnels that the North had dug after the ceasefire in a bid to invade the South. We walked down into the tunnel - about 450m down an 11 degree slope to the bottom - and then of course had to climb back out again!

From the observatory we could see into North Korea but we were not allowed to take photos beyond a certain line on the ground. The soldiers were monitoring everyone and deleting photos if they were taken past the line.

The Dorasan railway station has been built using money donated by people from South Korea so that one day you can travel by train from South to North and even on to London. It is an empty station - ready to go - with no trains. It is quite sad.

So - a very moving day in the end. Sad to see the barbed wire, manned security posts and knowing that families are still split by this. We are glad to have had the chance to go and see it though.

Imjingak Park - with ribbon messages....

Getting ready for a passport check.....

There are no trees on the mountains in North Korea - as the people have cut down the trees to burn for warmth.

Empty - Dorasan station

Lunch after the tour with the other adoptive families.

Shopping, getting lost and the Trick Eye museum

Changed rooms this morning at the agency today finally getting the room we had booked back in October (having kicked out friends of Michelle and Brendan's who were in the room - the Pirotti's from Carlton). Once we had organised for our luggage to be transferred to our new room we headed out to Myeongdeong for a little retail therapy. This area is one of the fashion districts in Korea so the boys had a great time wandering through the shops and underground markets - checking out what was on offer.

Purchases made, street food eaten for lunch and then off to Namdeamun market - although this was slightly hindered by the drizzling rain all day. It was very humid and we got wet but it was still fun. We will head back then on a drier day for some serious shopping.

We then headed back to the agency - the long way because we got a tad lost - and spent a lazy late afternoon chatting with the other families staying here before heading out for tea at Hongik again and then we visited the Trick Eye museum and Ice museum - which were both lots of fun. 

We are now back at the guest house - early start tomorrow as we are off to the DMZ with the other three families staying at the agency. Have always wanted to do it but never been able to organise it so when the others suggested we come along as they had extra seats on the bus they had booked we jumped at the chance.

One last point - I have finally changed the strings of the blog so you should now be able to post comments - sorry to anyone who had tried and been frustrated!